A Road of Snow, Water, and Wonder — Revelstoke, Glacier, Yoho, Banff, and Jasper National Parks, Canada

It is time to head northeast.

By the time I arrive at Mount Revelstoke National Park, the sun is out. I stop at the visitor center and learn the road is open until Broken Bridge Trail, which was highly recommended, so that is where I am heading.

I also make a quick stop at the historical ski jump site, where visitors can safely experience what it feels like to stand on a ski jump.

The hike to Broken Bridge Trail is easy. It goes a little uphill, but nothing major. The views between the trees are stunning with so much snow still covering the mountains.

At one point, I see a big bird ahead of me. At first I think it might be a wild turkey, but as I move softly closer, I discover a bird I have never seen before. I am so close that I can feel the vibration of the booming sound it makes. A quick search tells me it is a male Dusky Grouse.

So cool!

I continue my drive through Glacier National Park. I wish I had a camera on my dashboard because it is unbelievably beautiful. The park is still mostly closed because of deep snow.

It is already 7:00 in the evening, and it is time to figure out where my “home” will be for the night.

There are times when I follow directions from iOverlander to a spot that is who knows where, and I question myself, wondering if I am crazy.

To tell you the truth, I am scared when I take those narrow dirt roads. But somehow, I keep going because the idea of sleeping next to the Kicking Horse River excites me even more. Of course, being off the grid worries me a bit, but I keep driving slowly with a quiet prayer.

What a beautiful spot to call home!

It turns out I am not the only person who had this idea for the night. A group of four families are traveling from the United States to Alaska. I respectfully ask if I can join them, as the area is quite full with their rigs. That is how I find myself sitting around the fire with my new friends: Patti and Dave, their grandchildren Bennett and Summer, Autumn and Mark, Doug and Elaine, and Kevin and Connie.

At one point, we see a black bear on the edge of the river. He is far enough away and seems very focused, probably chasing his dinner.

My new friends are heading to Haida Gwaii. That place has come up in so many conversations lately, that I am now considering it as a destination, maybe for next year.

My next destination is Yoho National Park. Many hikes and roads are still closed there as well. I stop at Natural Bridge before heading to Emerald Lake. I hope the sun will reveal its stunning turquoise color by the time I arrive, but unfortunately, no luck.

By early afternoon, I am thrilled that the sun is out as I begin my drive from Banff National Park to Jasper National Park on the Icefields Parkway.

I am very excited to be here. Three years ago, I drove from Jasper to Banff and have been waiting to experience this beauty again. It is considered one of the most scenic drives in the world, and I can see why.

There is still snow on the ground, and Bow Lake is mostly frozen. On the hike to Peyto Lake, I put on my spikes because the snow is still deep. To my surprise, Peyto Lake has already melted, revealing its stunning blue color.

I stop at as many viewpoints as I can. Most trails are still closed because of snow, but I am able to stop at Mistaya Canyon.

Power in action.

I sit on the edge of a rock, my legs dangling above the gushing river, looking ahead at the mountains that feed this powerful water. It feels like a dance in harmony, between the giant stillness of the mountains and the roaring river they melt into.

Then it is time to find a spot for the night.

Sunset here is around 10:00 PM, so I can squeeze more out of the day, but I also want a quiet evening. Around 7:00, I begin my search. I know Route 11 has a few spots to boondock, but the one I feel comfortable driving to is taken, and the others seem like more than my car can handle.

So I ended up at a wild camping spot in a provincial park. I am pretty much paying for the picnic table, which serves as multifunctional furniture and becomes my yoga platform.

Worth paying for. :)

It rains again during the night. The clouds are low in the morning, and the sun is nowhere to be found. As I head back into the park, the view in front of me is heavenly stunning. I stop on the side of the road so I can take it all in.

I stop at the Columbia Icefield Center. In a spontaneous decision, I change my plan and take the tour to the Athabasca Glacier. It is interesting, although not the first time I have walked on a glacier. A few years ago, I hiked on one in Alaska, which was an incredible adventure.

The tour also includes the glass Skywalk. I know it may trigger my fear of heights, but as long as I do not look down, I am fine. The view is unbelievably beautiful.

There are pros and cons to traveling spontaneously. I appreciate the flexibility, even when the constant decision-making becomes exhausting. Still, it is a way for me to celebrate the freedom I have.

I am not sure if I will travel all the way to Jasper, but the need for a shower and a full gas tank brings me back there. From my last visit, I remember the fantastic showers at Whistler's Campground. The sweet feeling of running water is a simple pleasure I no longer take for granted.

I have time for one more short stop. I hiked this trail before and remember how much I enjoyed it. I do not have enough time to reach Stanley Falls, but there are so many waterfalls along the trail, breaking through the canyon. I am not sure why the water’s color is not as vibrant as I remember, but it is still worth a return visit.

Twenty-four kilometers before reaching Jasper, I begin to see evidence of the fire from two years ago. My heart breaks. The devastation spreads over an enormous amount of land. I am not sure what I am feeling. Loss, grief, sadness?

Somehow, I can still find beauty in this devastation, as the barren land now reveals what was hidden behind the leaves. Maybe I simply want to find beauty in this mayhem.

As I drive through town, I can see the path of the fire in the new houses still under construction.

So that is where I am now (Thursday, May 28), at the library in Jasper, catching up on my journey.