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Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, CO

  • Writer: Gila Melamed
    Gila Melamed
  • Sep 26
  • 3 min read

There are places that, unless you see them with your own eyes, no photo can truly capture their magnitude. Hold on—even as I stand at the edge of this humongous canyon, I can hardly fathom the enormity of what surrounds me.


From AI: The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park in western Colorado is known for its dramatic cliffs, steep drops, and narrow gorge carved by the Gunnison River over millions of years. With walls plunging over 2,700 feet and some of the steepest cliffs in North America, the park offers breathtaking overlooks, rugged hiking trails, and opportunities for stargazing in its certified Dark Sky environment. Unlike more crowded parks, it provides a quieter and more intimate way to experience the raw power of nature.


You may wonder how many times a landscape can leave me breathless. It turns out there are many. Our country is extraordinarily beautiful, full of wonders that never cease to surprise me.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison takes me by surprise. I had done my usual homework—watched videos, read articles—so I thought I knew what to expect. But the moment I arrive, it feels as though the ground suddenly opens up in front of me.


When I made my plans a few months ago, I wasn’t even sure I could stop at the South Rim, since a wildfire had destroyed much of it. It only reopened a few days before my visit.


As soon as I enter the park, I see the devastation the fire left behind. The campground is completely destroyed, and much of the vegetation is blackened. It is hard to witness nature in that stillness, stripped of life.


Both rims—north and south—offer scenic drives with countless overlooks. I stop at every viewpoint and walk each short path to the canyon’s edge. By the end of each day, I cover about six miles. Every stop leaves me whispering out loud, “Oh my God.” Thank you, God, for this creation—the dramatic depths, the colorful granite walls, and the river below echoing with a calming rhythm. It is a reminder of the harmony that nature holds within all its elements.


Another day comes to an end, and another puzzle to solve. Where do I end up sleeping tonight? Since the campground is closed, I head to a nearby BLM area I found in advance. From a ranger’s advice, the spots accessible to my car are near the entrance, and I worry they will all fill quickly. Arriving at 5:00, I am lucky to grab one. As always, I have a Plan B in mind, I can return to the Walmart parking lot I used the night before. I need to go back in that direction anyway, as I drive the two hours to the North Rim.


I decided to walk and check the area. That’s how I end up spending my evening with my neighbors, Leslayann and Tom from Washington. I love it when I have the opportunity to engage in an intellectual conversation. It is a pleasure sharing my admiration for Dr. Heather Cox Richardson, an American historian whom I follow on her podcast, with Tom.


I get such a simple pleasure waking up in nature. I truly don’t want to end up sleeping in Walmart's parking lot again. Coffee even tastes better! Now, I have two hours to drive to the North Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.


The North Rim is remote and accessible only by an unpaved road. It is less visited. If I have to choose between the two, I would say the North Rim offers a better view of the canyon and the Gunnison River. The best viewpoints are Exclamation Point and Chasm.


There is a small campground that operates on a first-come, first-served basis. Luckily, I got my spot! It does fill up quickly, though.


The hike to Exclamation Point is easy. When I reach the viewpoint, I take off my backpack and begin to explore. I go as far as I can to the edge without triggering my fear of heights and sit down to feel tiny among giants. Oh, how much I wish I were a bird right now …


Chasm Point is just a short walk from my campsite. It’s a perfect place for a sunset.


Another day comes to an end; another day to be grateful for!


Good morning, sunshine. Thank you for warming up the chilly morning.


A Note: By the time you read this, I’ll likely be on my four-day, 1,700-mile drive home. I will not have time to stop and write. I will try my best to find the time while catching up on the many things I need to attend to before heading back out.

I am looking forward to sharing with you my time in Aspen, hiking the Maroon Bells, along with a quick revisit to Custer State Park, SD, and Badlands National Park.


Until next time...

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I share my adventures and reflections in my Substack newsletter, where stories come from the heart and connect us through honesty and wonder.
Join me on this journey — walk beside me, feel the wind, and see life through my lens.
Embracing the power of vulnerability with an authentic heart.

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