Cap-Bon-Ami, a Landscape That Stole My Heart — Forillon National Park, Quebec, Canada

The day is still foggy and drizzling.

I get to the visitor center of Forillon National Park. I am excited to be here. Of course, through my research, there are some places I gravitate toward more than others. Yes, I am coming with a certain set of expectations that naturally happen when you see a photo that gets inside your heart and stays there. I have a feeling I will not be disappointed.

The first question I ask is about a campsite. Nothing, they are all sold out. Well… I tried. My second question is whether there are any suggestions for a shower. Yes, go into the campground and enjoy the showers there.

Bingo! That’s all I need!!!

I go over the hikes I have in mind with the ranger to make sure I don’t miss anything. It is already late afternoon, but first is a much-needed shower. Hallelujah! It feels amazingly wonderful to wash away the sting of the black flies. My neck and ears are all swollen and covered with bites.

By 4:00, I am feeling so refreshed and ready to go on with my day. Going on a hike right now is out of the question with the ground so wet. I ask the ranger what her favorite spot in the park is.

Cap-Bon-Ami.

The clouds are low and gray. I know I will not see much, however, there is a mystical beauty even on a gloomy day.

I absolutely love when a landscape stops me in my tracks and spontaneous sounds of awe come out from deep inside me.

It is a raw beauty! The kind of landscape where I feel I most belong. Yes, I am a mountain girl. However, the combination of mountains meeting the ocean is home for me. So far, the coast of Maine and the Oregon Coast are where I have found this peace.

I stand for a while, feeding my soul with wonder and love.

I do have a place in mind for tonight, so before it gets dark, I go to check it out, just in case I need to come up with a Plan B. It is a large, deserted parking lot not far from Cap-Bon-Ami. There are two other vans, so I feel comfortable staying. It is a bit eerie, but with other people around, I feel safe. A skinny fox comes to say hello and then disappears into the bushes.

Sweet dreams, little fox.

Good morning, sunshine.

By 6:00, I am on my way to hike to Cap Gaspé, or, as they like to call it, the End of the World. I am trying to avoid the crowds.

It is already a hot day. I get my parking spot and start my morning routine. By 7:00, I start my hike. It is only five miles round trip and a pretty easy hike. The most important part is that I do get my solitude and have an intimate moment with the End of the World. It is just me and a blue horizon.

What I learn next surprises me. It turns out the Appalachian Trail continues into Canada and ends at Cap Gaspé. So cool!

The day is still young, so I stop for another hike to check out Chute Waterfall. I like this one! It is far from being a powerful waterfall, and still, there is a gentle beauty to it. At first, I am not sure why I am so attracted to this waterfall. As I continue to observe this art, I realize that what makes this waterfall so gently attractive is the moss that grows on the rocks it cascades over.

Since yesterday, I have been longing to go back to Cap-Bon-Ami. Now that the sun is out, how will my heart feel?

Wow, wow, and wow! This is what peace feels like. The beauty is even more dramatic than yesterday. It is an indisputably breathtaking view!

What I do next surprises me. I am actually practicing soft.

Who is that woman?

I pack my small backpack, my Kindle, a light jacket, and my chair, and go down to the pebble shore to sit and be part of this landscape.

What a majestic beauty.

My stomach is growling. Time to eat. I fix myself a simple sandwich and steal another shower at the campground next to Cap-Bon-Ami. The day still has a few hours left, so I am back at Cap-Bon-Ami to enjoy a much-needed stretch. I open my yoga mat on one of the picnic tables to end another gorgeous day.

I am back with my little fox, this time with no other vans joining me.

Another quiet night, another early start.

Before I leave to continue my journey, I want to see how Cap-Bon-Ami looks early in the morning. So far, I have found that different times of day and different weather create different feelings in this stunning place.

I appreciate the empty parking lot. The view is all mine. The early morning sun is shimmering on the blue water like a diamond, highlighting each element that creates this incredible beauty. The only sound is the crashing waves.

It is so mesmerizing!

The first time I came, I noticed that there is a short hike leading somewhere. Now that the ground is dry and not slippery, I decide to see where it will take me. The sign in French doesn’t help at all. There is no reception to run it through the translation app. It is only 1.8 kilometers, so I start going. I stop after the bend in the trail.

Okay, I wasn’t expecting this…

The hike takes a sharp incline. There are ropes to help with the climb.

A silent debate starts between two parts of me. One is the new soft part in me that is curious to see what soft feels like. The other part is the one that sometimes gets me into trouble. All I see is the beauty of a mental and physical challenge.

So I go for it. :)

When I get to the summit of Mont Saint-Alban, I reach the observation tower. I climb to the top to have a bird’s-eye view of Cap-Bon-Ami.

It was definitely worth the climb.

So much for practicing soft. :)

I smile at the two parts of me.

The one who is learning to be soft, and the one who still loves to climb.

Maybe I do not have to choose between them.

Maybe soft does not mean giving up the challenge. Maybe it means listening to myself, knowing when to rest, and knowing when my heart still wants to go.

Today, my heart wanted to climb.

I am so glad I listened.