Even in the Darkness, There Is a Horizon — Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
- Aug 11
- 5 min read
Another Fun Ferry Ride!
I arrive in Nova Scotia in the evening. I find a parking spot at Walmart in New Glasgow and settle in for the night.
I wake up to a foggy, cloudy day, and I am left with a dilemma. What should I do? The weather is showing rain along my travel route for the next few days.
I try to keep things in perspective. Of course, I wish I had a knob that could control the weather, but this is one of the elements of uncertainty I need to embrace.
I keep driving…
My first stop in a new place is always a visitor center, when I can find one. It turns out that Cape Breton has closed a few of its visitor centers. My best option is two hours away, but is still in my direction.
I get maps, ask a few questions, and I am off to visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site.
It is such a well-done museum, celebrating the life of a man who had so much passion for helping others and such a beautiful, curious mind that led him to create so many inventions.
I keep driving…
I arrive at the entrance to Cape Breton Highlands National Park and stop to see if I could get lucky. No luck. There are no campsites available. I am fully aware that my chances are pretty much zero, but hey, you never know.
Just before reaching the park, I see a spot marked on the iOverlander map. It is not great. Somehow, it does not sit well with me, but maybe it will have to do for tonight.
I try calling other campgrounds, but no one answers. It is already five in the evening. Not knowing what to do and needing to clear my mind, I go for a hike on the Middle Head Trail.
I get my first glimpse of the rocky shores of Cape Breton.
By 6:30, I am back at my car, making a simple sandwich for dinner.
Time to find my spot for tonight…
A minute into my drive, I notice a large parking lot with one RV tucked into the corner. I think it is still National Park property, but there is also a golf course just across from the parking lot, so I am not completely sure.
I decide to take my chances. I feel safer here. I find my corner and hope for the best.
By eight o’clock, a National Park security truck drives past me. I start putting on my shoes so I can step outside and make sure I am not breaking any rules, but the truck continues on.
Therefore, I decide to stay and take my chances. It is a quiet night, with no knocking on my door. I do not want to abuse my luck, so I leave by six in the morning.
It is a windy, cloudy, and drizzly morning.
My mission today is to reach Meat Cove Campground as early as possible and secure a campsite, since it is first come, first served.
Two years ago, while planning my Nova Scotia adventure, I saw this place on the map. Somehow, it stayed with me.
I am glad I started early because there are a few places I want to stop and explore along the way.
One of my stops is the White Point Lookout Trail. I have never been to Scotland, but from the photographs I have seen, this is what I imagine it feels like.
I absolutely love this hike. It is so early in the morning that it is only me and this unbelievable beauty.
The beautiful green grass, high cliffs, crashing waves, and low gray clouds that add a mystical charm. Seagulls surf the wind, and a seal pup raises its head to greet me good morning.
Since I still do not know whether I will be able to get a campsite, a search for a shower brings me to a small fishing village. I am sure the life of a fisherman or fisherwoman is not easy. Still, there is a simplicity here that I appreciate.
By 9:00 a.m., I arrive at Meat Cove, just in time to get a campsite before they are all gone. Three vans arrive right after me, and the campground is full. It is a small, rugged campground, just as I like it.
My site is number seven. I park with the back of my van facing the ocean. The wind is so strong that, if I want to reach my kitchen, the front of my van needs to face the wind. And, of course, I want the view from my bedroom. :)
I set up my chair and sit down to do nothing. My television screen is painted in blue, my favorite color. Above me are blue skies brushed with feather-white clouds. In front of me is the deeper blue of the ocean. To my right, mountains are covered in lush green. To my left, shades of brown form a massive rock where the waves constantly crash, adding white to my palette and sounds that soothe my soul. The wind that so often challenges me is now creating beautiful patterns across the ocean. It is mesmerizing. Almost hypnotizing.
Tonight, the food truck is open, so a lobster roll it is. (Thank you, Susan, for the recommendation).
I keep my back door open as I lie in bed, looking into the vast darkness stretching out in front of me. Even in the darkness of the night, I can see and feel the faint shadow of the horizon. I try to find a lesson in this landscape, especially now that I am feeling deflated. I was so looking forward to this part of my journey. However, the layer of fatigue feels heavy. I am trying softly, but firmly, to stay in the moment. To receive the experience that is in front of me and not think too much about the uncertainty waiting ahead.
The uncertainty that excited me for the past three years now suddenly frightens me. Maybe even in the darkness, there is always a horizon to look toward.
The wind becomes too strong, and I have no choice but to close my back door. All night, the wind howls and shakes my van.
I purposely leave my windows uncovered because I want to witness the sunrise. It is a gentle sunrise this morning.
A new day. New opportunities. And endless uncertainty. I spend another day doing nothing. My entire nervous system reaches a place of calm that I so desperately need. Who needs a five-star resort when I have a landscape that is priceless!
I know very well that I need to make some changes, but this is not the time to make them. Not while I am exhausted and a little overwhelmed.
Finally, by late evening, the wind begins to slow down, and the ocean is calm and peaceful. This time, I keep my back door open and fall asleep to the gentle breeze.
It is another gentle sunrise. I wish I could hold this calmness in my heart and carry the peaceful spirit that exists in my soul right now.
Lately, there is so much noise inside my head. I feel as though I have lost some of the trust I once had in myself and in my journey.
I hope I find my way back.
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