The Kind Spirit of Manitoulin Island — Ontario, Canada

I wake up to another day of a heat wave. I was able to stay as cool as possible during the night with my two fans, but by morning, the heat is already uncomfortable.

I don’t do well in the heat. The perfect temperature for me is between 50° and 60°. It is good that I need to catch up on my writing. It brings me to a cool library.

I have a two-hour drive to my next destination, Manitoulin Island. The island first caught my attention when I read that it is the world’s largest freshwater island.

Another fun fact is that Manitoulin has more than 100 lakes of its own, and some of those lakes even have islands in them. Like a Russian nesting doll: an island inside an island.

As I scroll through Google Maps, I also learn that part of Manitoulin sits on Lake Huron, and another part faces Georgian Bay.

Two years ago, when I visited Bruce Peninsula National Park, I was absolutely delighted by the color of the water. It’s a stunning, beautiful, happy turquoise that felt like a gift to my soul.

I did not come to Manitoulin expecting to see that same color of water. However, I will admit, I was crossing my fingers that maybe, just maybe, I would.

I cross the bridge to the island in the early evening, and the heat is thick and humid. I stop at the visitor center to get my bearings, and then head out to explore.

At one point, I open iOverlander and see only one free spot on the island. It does not feel right, and with the heat, I decide I would be better off staying cool tonight in a motel.

All the motels I stop at are booked. At the last motel, the guy recommends that I check out the motels in South Baymouth.

I call Buckhorn Motel. A lady answers the call, and before anything else, she says, “New Jersey?”

Yes, she recognizes the NJ area code. She goes on to share that her best years were spent at Princeton University.

Yes, she has one room left.

When she answers my question about the price, the line goes silent. She can sense my hesitation, and before I can say anything, she says, “Don’t worry, just come. I will take care of you.”

After a 30-minute drive, I get to the motel. Lorraine is sweet and full of joy. She shows me the room, which is lovely and renovated, with a deep bath. She points at it and says, “You look like you need a good soak.”

Then she decides that I need to have an Epsom salt bath, and she goes to her place to bring me some. I am still speechless from her kindness. Lorraine gives me a generous discount that I deeply appreciate.

I eat a quick dinner and drive to the edge of the island, where it meets Georgian Bay. Since I did not come with any expectations, I am not met with disappointment as I look at the water. It is still beautiful.

What a peaceful island.

When I get back, a lovely conversation with my neighbors, Priti and Sunil, wraps up another day.

The next morning, before I leave, I return the Epsom salt, but I also leave Lorraine with a gift: one of my glass fusion pendants.

She loves it and says, “These are my colors.”

There are two places on the island that are considered a “must do”: the Cup and Saucer Trail and Bridal Veil Falls. Unfortunately, Bridal Veil Falls is temporarily closed. Just the thought of standing underneath the waterfall to cool down sounds like heaven in this heat. So I settle for ice cream instead.

I keep exploring the island until I get to Misery Bay Provincial Park. The trail goes through a silent forest, letting the birds’ songs slide through the trees, creating a magic of sound.

After 30 minutes, the forest opens wide onto a raw, wild, rocky shore.

It is Canada Day, and I want to celebrate this beautiful country and honor its people. So I am heading to Providence Bay Beach for the fireworks.

I have plenty of time before dark, so I stroll the boardwalk. A lady starts a conversation with me, and yes, you guessed it right. It is an instant connection.

Terry is an Indigenous healer, and her beautiful energy shines through her. I love those deep and meaningful conversations I am gifted on my journey. We hug goodbye, and I wish we had more time together.

Later, I sit on a bench near my car. A lady and her dog are coming my way. Somehow, the dog feels familiar, but I cannot yet see its owner clearly.

I am stunned. It is Alexandra, the woman I met in Kenora while doing yoga in the park. I thought by now she would be much farther ahead of me. We are both surprised and happy to see each other.

I love hearing about Alexandra’s contribution to peace. A few months ago, she organized a peace walk from her town toward the U.S. border. At the same time, people from the town on the U.S. side walked toward them.

They met at the border, celebrating the basic human desire for peace.

As we say our goodbyes, guess who joins in?

Priti and Sunil.

They are as stunned as I am to see each other again. We had bumped into each other again this morning, on the Cup and Saucer Trail, joking that maybe we would see each other later.

What a small world.

Starting to look for a place to sleep this late at night is just not a good idea. Luckily, I am able to blend in quietly and become part of the neighborhood mural for the night.

It is difficult to sleep after such a sweaty day. All night, I dream about a shower. Luckily, I know I have two options on iOverlander for a shower just before I leave the island.

I learn that Manitoulin is often translated as “Island of the Great Spirit,” and somehow, that feels just right.

Manitoulin feels like it has its own rhythm. A slow and gentle rhythm, with no rush.

It almost feels disconnected from the noise of the world. As if this island is surrounded not only by water, but also by a peaceful rhythm that protects it from the noise of life.